I have been wanting to write about the New Zealand backcountry for a long time now, and in particular how good the hut system is, so i figured as i am sat in a DOC hut then now would be the perfect time.
New Zealand is blessed with some incredible ski areas that have endless amounts of sidecountry within easy reach of the chairlifts but it's not until you head into the backcountry that you see its true potential. The rugged, raw mountains and the adventurous spirit that is installed in kiwis and their infectious attitude to skiing and snowboarding that makes it such a unique place.
You are encouraged to strap on your skis or splitboard and explore, just make sure you know exactly what you are doing in the backcountry as the terrain can be intimidating here and you need to be prepared to experience 4 seasons in a day( bad Crowded House reference, sorry). Due to the insane weather that hits NZ most kiwis are very knowledgeable when it comes to the weather patterns here so just ask a local if you are unsure.
The hut system in New Zealand is great, there are a lot of huts owned by guiding companies which are incredible and luxurious which is reflected in the daily price, But the Department of Conservation (DOC) have installed their own huts deep in the mountains. In summer they are accessed via walking tracks, but in winter they become a backcountry tourers dream with huts dotted around ridgelines, glaciers and steep faces. It always shocks me on the locations they get these huts into, but they are usually well positioned as a base for multiple day tours.
Do your research before as some huts are very basic with no heating for means of cooking, so be prepared.
There is a wealth of knowledge available to you online about huts and how they are reached. The main website being www.skitouring.co.nz, this is a public forum where locals have uploaded detailed routes, photos and topo maps to help you on your trip. Use www.topomap.co.nz to get unlimited topographic maps for the whole on NZ.
One thing to be careful of when using these websites is that the routes are written by guides and locals and if theres one thing you need to know about kiwi backcountry skiers and split boarders is that they are tough bastards. If they say its a hard 3 hours skin to a hut then they mean it, by the same token if they say its easy then still treat it as hard. Just know your own limits and ability.
If you are ever unsure about a route then just get in contact with guides or use the online forums, people go out of their way to help you if it means you're out exploring.
You earn your turns here but the reward is great. There is a different vibe here compared to anywhere else i have been, maybe its the dramatic landscapes or the get out and explore attitude, whatever it is makes for expereinces that will last a lifetime.
The winter looked to be over with warm weather, but winter made a comeback this week with parts of NZ getting up to a metre of new snow. I took a trip to the Kirtleburn hut which sits in the Pisa Range opposite Cardrona. The terrain is fairly mellow up here but there are a few steep gullys dotted around but it takes nothing away from the beauty of the place. Its a 3 hours skin from the top of Snow Farm to the hut, starting on very flat terrain before branching off up a gully.
Reaching the hut at around 5pm i settled into the very basic hut, had some food and a rest before going for a sunset skin up to a near peak. Watching the sun set over the mountains in the distance i could see Mount Aspiring towering over the rat, i wasn't expecting views like that but it was stunning.
Once the sun had set i enjoyed a run back to the hut by moonlight, it was so bright i could see all the undulations in the snow as the moon added definition to the dark background.
I was worried it would be a cold night with no heating, but luckily i was pretty comfortable in my sleeping back ( probably the heat radiating from my sunburn keeping me warm) and had a really peaceful nights sleep.
Sunrise filled the hut early and i watched the local animals playing around in the morning glow. There was a lot of snow in the area but i needed to wait for it to soften up which was around 11am. After packing up my gear i set off back to Snow Farm, finding some nice snow in a small couloir along the way.
Getting back to the car, although tired from the day before, i had that feeling of achievement. I hadn't done anything hard or gnarly but it was satisfying just getting out there and exploring using nothing but your own power.
If you are a keen ski tourer or split boarder then NZ should be high on your list of places to travel too, you definitely won't regret it and will provide you with a yarn to tell for a lifetime.